On the Line: Top Rope Solo Manual

· Andrew Kirkpatrick limited
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About this ebook

Top rope soloing has been a climbing technique employed by climbers without partners for fifty years, allowing a climber to top rope climbs with a certain degree of safety lacking in free soloing. For various reasons, these techniques were never formally codified or documented for others to learn from or build upon; instead, they were passed on through word of mouth. One possible reason for this lack of formalization was the inherent risk associated with these techniques, making people hesitant to take responsibility for potential accidents.

However, the advent of the internet changed this dynamic. Suddenly, the subject began to receive significantly more attention, both on climbing forums and websites, as well as on video platforms like YouTube. While this helped disseminate more information, it also created a problem: what was once a lack of information turned into an overwhelming abundance of it. Everyone was sharing their thoughts at once, leading to a mix of both bad and good advice.

Simultaneously, there was a surge in interest in top rope soloing, accompanied by a corresponding increase in accidents. Something needed to be done to address this issue.

"On the Line" was a three-year project aimed at consolidating all available information on the subject, both old and new, and integrating it with industrial rope access techniques. The goal was to finally produce a foundational text on the subject. It's important to note that "On the Line" is not meant to be the definitive authority on the subject but rather the first step in the right direction.

Subjects covered include:

Safety

Device mechanics.

Device selection.

Device attachment

Back-ups

Rope systems (one rope, two ropes, pseudo leading, top rope TRS).

Rigging.

Escape.

Re-anchors and redirects.

Lots and lots of micro details on hardware and software.


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About the author

‘I haven’t climbed Everest, skied to the poles, or sailed single-handed around the world. The goals I set out to accomplish aren’t easily measured or quantified by world records or ‘firsts.’ The reasons I climb, and the climbs do, are about more than distance or altitude, they are about breaking barriers within myself.’

Andy Kirkpatrick was born and raised on a council estate in Hull, one of the UK’s flattest cities, and suffered from severe dyslexia, which went undiagnosed until he was 19. Thriving on this apparent adversity, Andy transformed himself into one of the world’s most driven and accomplished climbers, and an award- winning writer.

The US magazine Climbing once described Andy as a climber with a ‘strange penchant for the long, the cold and the difficult,’ with a reputation for ‘seeking out routes where the danger is real, and the return is questionable, pushing himself on some of the hardest walls and faces in the Alps and beyond, sometimes with partners and sometimes alone.’

Andy’s specialty is big wall climbing and winter expeditions, which involves pitting himself against a vertical climbs of over one thousand metres (almost three times as high as the Empire State Building), often in temperatures as low as minus 30C. Andy has scaled Yosemite’s El Capitan – one of the most difficult rock walls in America – over ten times, including two solo ascents. One of these ascents was

a 12-day solo of the Reticent Wall, viewed at the time as perhaps the hardest climb of its type in the world. In 2002 he undertook one of the hardest climbs in Europe: a 15-day winter ascent of the West face of the Dru. This one thousand metre pillar pushed him and his partner to their limits and was featured in the award-winning film Cold Haul.

Andy has also taken part in three winter expeditions to Patagonia. The stories that Andy has brought back from these expeditions have become modern classics in the climbing world and have brought new meaning to the words ‘epic’ and ‘cold.’

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